Custom Model Horse Painting
The most frequent question I'm asked is "Can you paint this model horse for me?"
The answer is yes . . . sometimes. I have been custom painting models for many years, and am able to reproduce almost any color or pattern that a buyer may desire. However, because my Commercial clients must take priority, all custom orders must be fit in-between these jobs. Generally, these projects have tight deadlines. This can make timing difficult, as I never know exactly when a company may call.
Because of this, I am unable to predict when I can accept custom orders for private clients. Openings for custom painting slots tend to pop up very suddenly. They will be announced on my Instagram or Facebook Page. This page explains my policies and how to order, when paint jobs are available.
The answer is yes . . . sometimes. I have been custom painting models for many years, and am able to reproduce almost any color or pattern that a buyer may desire. However, because my Commercial clients must take priority, all custom orders must be fit in-between these jobs. Generally, these projects have tight deadlines. This can make timing difficult, as I never know exactly when a company may call.
Because of this, I am unable to predict when I can accept custom orders for private clients. Openings for custom painting slots tend to pop up very suddenly. They will be announced on my Instagram or Facebook Page. This page explains my policies and how to order, when paint jobs are available.
Policies and Pricing for Custom Painting
Q: What does it cost to have a model custom painted?
A: $600-$2000 (*Plus Prep)
Price depends on how elaborate the paint job is, and the model you would like it on. I used to price one color all the same. However, not all "Bay" models take the same time to paint. A dark bay with no dapples on a small model with a short mane, is vastly different from a star-dappled bay with very dramatic shadings on a large model with tons of swirling hair. I have painted enough model horses that I can come up with an estimate based on photos. Most solid colors with moderate dapples will be about $800, and most pintos will run $800-$1500. Dapple Grays start at $700 for a smaller scale mostly white horse, up to $2000+ for draft horse in darker star dappled gray. Things like little hairs around the spots of an Overo, or "ink spotting" of color inside the white spots of a Tobiano can increase price. This is cost of painting only, not postage or prep. Prep starts at $150.
A simple dark bay, light "white" gray, or black horse with no dappling would be the least expensive of paint jobs, and the most expensive would be extended "semi leopard" appaloosa patterns or elaborate Overos on top of dappled colors. I tend to favor more simple, straightforward paint jobs as custom orders, because I can expedite them faster and help more clients. However, I am always open to more elaborate commissions.
A: $600-$2000 (*Plus Prep)
Price depends on how elaborate the paint job is, and the model you would like it on. I used to price one color all the same. However, not all "Bay" models take the same time to paint. A dark bay with no dapples on a small model with a short mane, is vastly different from a star-dappled bay with very dramatic shadings on a large model with tons of swirling hair. I have painted enough model horses that I can come up with an estimate based on photos. Most solid colors with moderate dapples will be about $800, and most pintos will run $800-$1500. Dapple Grays start at $700 for a smaller scale mostly white horse, up to $2000+ for draft horse in darker star dappled gray. Things like little hairs around the spots of an Overo, or "ink spotting" of color inside the white spots of a Tobiano can increase price. This is cost of painting only, not postage or prep. Prep starts at $150.
A simple dark bay, light "white" gray, or black horse with no dappling would be the least expensive of paint jobs, and the most expensive would be extended "semi leopard" appaloosa patterns or elaborate Overos on top of dappled colors. I tend to favor more simple, straightforward paint jobs as custom orders, because I can expedite them faster and help more clients. However, I am always open to more elaborate commissions.
Less Expensive Paint Jobs
More Expensive Paint Jobs
1Q: Do prices include prepping? Do I need to send my models prepped?
A: No, prices do not include prep. I do offer prep, but it is not bargain priced.
Like all hobby painters, I would much prefer to spend my time in the studio painting rather than sanding. However, I do have to prep my own resins, so I can prep your model. Note, I now charge the same hourly rate to prep as I do to paint, so expect to pay $150+ for the service. Also, because I prep in "batches" your model will need to wait to be lumped in with my next batch of horses needing to be prepped. This may delay your paint order somewhat.
Prep work is slow and boring but it is not difficult. I highly encourage anyone to try prepping their own models.
Rio Rondo has a free tutorial on their web site here: http://www.riorondo.com/info/brochures/index.html
A: No, prices do not include prep. I do offer prep, but it is not bargain priced.
Like all hobby painters, I would much prefer to spend my time in the studio painting rather than sanding. However, I do have to prep my own resins, so I can prep your model. Note, I now charge the same hourly rate to prep as I do to paint, so expect to pay $150+ for the service. Also, because I prep in "batches" your model will need to wait to be lumped in with my next batch of horses needing to be prepped. This may delay your paint order somewhat.
Prep work is slow and boring but it is not difficult. I highly encourage anyone to try prepping their own models.
Rio Rondo has a free tutorial on their web site here: http://www.riorondo.com/info/brochures/index.html
Q: What do you need to complete a custom order? Do I need to send a deposit?
A: No money is due up front. I need your horse, plus a photo of a real horse, in the color you want your model to be.
You need to mail me your model and PRINTED REFERENCES of a real, live horse in the color you would like your model to look like. Please do not email me attachments, as my home printer always prints items darker and duller than what is seen on your monitor. Look carefully at the items you print out. Does this photo look like what you want? Is it too dark? Too light? Too red or too yellow? (When I am in the studio, this is ALL that I'll have to look at.) If the color in the printed document is not quite what you want, please adjust the print quality or color until it looks like what you want your model to look like. Because my own home printer is lacking, I often upload my reference photos to walgreens.com and have them professionally printed.
You may print out several other photos of face markings, dapples and details you like, and I can combine these into one paint job, but please mark the one that is overall the closest to the "general" color that you want, and write "MAIN COLOR REFERENCE" + the name of your resin right on the photo.
By showing me the one basic color that you want your horse to be, this assures I will not paint your horse the wrong color. (Yes, this actually happened, once, which is why I now ask for printed references!) If I have several orders at the same time, you send sent links through email, perhaps one link is for the body color, and another for a face or leg markings. It is very easy for me to get the links mixed up, or even possibly put the wrong color on the wrong model, when I'm dealing with several orders at the same time and lots of emails. This is why I ask for printed reference material that is clearly marked.
A: No money is due up front. I need your horse, plus a photo of a real horse, in the color you want your model to be.
You need to mail me your model and PRINTED REFERENCES of a real, live horse in the color you would like your model to look like. Please do not email me attachments, as my home printer always prints items darker and duller than what is seen on your monitor. Look carefully at the items you print out. Does this photo look like what you want? Is it too dark? Too light? Too red or too yellow? (When I am in the studio, this is ALL that I'll have to look at.) If the color in the printed document is not quite what you want, please adjust the print quality or color until it looks like what you want your model to look like. Because my own home printer is lacking, I often upload my reference photos to walgreens.com and have them professionally printed.
You may print out several other photos of face markings, dapples and details you like, and I can combine these into one paint job, but please mark the one that is overall the closest to the "general" color that you want, and write "MAIN COLOR REFERENCE" + the name of your resin right on the photo.
By showing me the one basic color that you want your horse to be, this assures I will not paint your horse the wrong color. (Yes, this actually happened, once, which is why I now ask for printed references!) If I have several orders at the same time, you send sent links through email, perhaps one link is for the body color, and another for a face or leg markings. It is very easy for me to get the links mixed up, or even possibly put the wrong color on the wrong model, when I'm dealing with several orders at the same time and lots of emails. This is why I ask for printed reference material that is clearly marked.
Remember, the photos you send determine the quality of the paint job! Send good clear photos of the color you want.
I usually do not share in-progress photos while I am painting, unless I have a question. I will try my absolute best to try and match the photo reference you send me. I promise it will be the very best I can do! But I can not assure you that the colors will match EXACTLY what is seen in your references. These in-progress photos shown can tell you how similar you can expect your model to resemble the references you send me. An exact color match may not be possible. You can expect your horse's color to be matched to the same degree as the example photos on this page.
Remember to send photos of REAL horses. It makes me uncomfortable to be asked to copy another hobby artist's work.
When your horse is done, you will be notified and expected to pay at that time. If I ever take too long to paint your horse, due to an unexpected commercial job that may pop up and delay progress, you are welcome to ask for it back, ANY time, for ANY reason. No longer have money to have me custom paint your model? If I haven't done the work, you can have it back, no questions asked and no hard feelings, ever. if I have done some work (like prep) all I ask is payment for what has already been done. I do not "hoard" your models or hold them hostage. Your resin is your property! I do not take your deposits and make you wait years for a finished product. I have many references for years of honest dealings with clients.
Remember to send photos of REAL horses. It makes me uncomfortable to be asked to copy another hobby artist's work.
When your horse is done, you will be notified and expected to pay at that time. If I ever take too long to paint your horse, due to an unexpected commercial job that may pop up and delay progress, you are welcome to ask for it back, ANY time, for ANY reason. No longer have money to have me custom paint your model? If I haven't done the work, you can have it back, no questions asked and no hard feelings, ever. if I have done some work (like prep) all I ask is payment for what has already been done. I do not "hoard" your models or hold them hostage. Your resin is your property! I do not take your deposits and make you wait years for a finished product. I have many references for years of honest dealings with clients.
Q: Do you guarantee your work? Do you do repairs?
A: I guarantee my work to arrive in good condition, not be "sticky" and for paint to stay on the model (not flake or lift during normal handling.) I will either repair lifting or sticking or if it is very bad, or refund the entire amount of the paint job if needed. Lifting of paint is extremely rare, but in past years a few batches of "bad" resin have surfaced that have resisted paint or primer. Although this is neither your fault or mine if this happens, I will still absorb all costs of the paint job if it does. I have painted hundreds of resins though the years and problems in general are extremely rare.
Do note that AIRBRUSH PAINT JOBS ARE FRAGILE BY NATURE. I can't stress this enough! Please handle with care.
A: I guarantee my work to arrive in good condition, not be "sticky" and for paint to stay on the model (not flake or lift during normal handling.) I will either repair lifting or sticking or if it is very bad, or refund the entire amount of the paint job if needed. Lifting of paint is extremely rare, but in past years a few batches of "bad" resin have surfaced that have resisted paint or primer. Although this is neither your fault or mine if this happens, I will still absorb all costs of the paint job if it does. I have painted hundreds of resins though the years and problems in general are extremely rare.
Do note that AIRBRUSH PAINT JOBS ARE FRAGILE BY NATURE. I can't stress this enough! Please handle with care.
Above: Performance Show entries painted by Sommer Prosser. Tack and horses are not owned by the artist.
Performance showers:
For people who are very involved in Performance showing, you may want to look into an oil paint finish instead. Oil is more durable and easier to touch up. While my airbrushed paint jobs have been used successfully for years, and won many top awards by Performance showers, airbrushing is not guaranteed to withstand tweezers, sharp metal fittings, rubbing against other props or obstacles, or the many rigors that Performance displays involve. Because layers of airbrushed paint are built up slowly, in very thin layers it is often impossible for me to mix up one little "dab" of a set color and magically fix a serious rub in an obvious place. I may be able to do a small or minor touch up, like an ear tip or nose rub. Prevention is always best. Please handle airbrushed paint jobs carefully!
Performance showers:
For people who are very involved in Performance showing, you may want to look into an oil paint finish instead. Oil is more durable and easier to touch up. While my airbrushed paint jobs have been used successfully for years, and won many top awards by Performance showers, airbrushing is not guaranteed to withstand tweezers, sharp metal fittings, rubbing against other props or obstacles, or the many rigors that Performance displays involve. Because layers of airbrushed paint are built up slowly, in very thin layers it is often impossible for me to mix up one little "dab" of a set color and magically fix a serious rub in an obvious place. I may be able to do a small or minor touch up, like an ear tip or nose rub. Prevention is always best. Please handle airbrushed paint jobs carefully!
Definition of "normal" wear:
I guarantee that my paint jobs will arrive to you in good condition, and will not have paint randomly flake off, rub off during normal handling, or crack, and if it does, I will either repair or refund the price. Because I have no control over how a resin is stored or handled, in general this warranty is good for one year, to the original buyer.
This warranty does not cover abuse or mishandling. Airbrushed model horses are not designed to handle falls, drops, scrapes, or "domino" shelf collisions, tipping, falling, and getting knocked off of shelves. When I show my own models, I lay them on their sides or keep them wrapped until their class is called to prevent accidents, because while I can paint a good horse once, I can't always match the color twice. Do not store models in very hot, humid areas or in freezing conditions. Paint jobs are not designed to withstand extreme heat or cold. Please store in "normal" temps of 50-80 degrees.
Repairs:
I may be able to fix small flaws, like ear, nose or hoof rubs, but in general, I am not skilled at complicated or major repair work. If a model I own myself rubs or falls, I've often had to either turn it into a "pinto" to cover the flaw, or repaint it altogether if I was unable to hide the damaged area. The worst items for me to try and restore are broken legs, cracked tails, and large rubs or scratches on the barrel (side) of the horse.
Because of my poor track record of success on serious repairs, I highly recommend Sheryl Leisure for professional restoration of any of your "oops!" moments: http://www.modelhorsejamboree.com/repair.htm Sheryl does great work at very affordable prices and teaches classes at Breyerfest showing people how to fix their model horses. She is very well known for her skills in this area.
Repair and restoration is a unique and extremely valuable art form all its own! Just ask any major art museum. :)
I guarantee that my paint jobs will arrive to you in good condition, and will not have paint randomly flake off, rub off during normal handling, or crack, and if it does, I will either repair or refund the price. Because I have no control over how a resin is stored or handled, in general this warranty is good for one year, to the original buyer.
This warranty does not cover abuse or mishandling. Airbrushed model horses are not designed to handle falls, drops, scrapes, or "domino" shelf collisions, tipping, falling, and getting knocked off of shelves. When I show my own models, I lay them on their sides or keep them wrapped until their class is called to prevent accidents, because while I can paint a good horse once, I can't always match the color twice. Do not store models in very hot, humid areas or in freezing conditions. Paint jobs are not designed to withstand extreme heat or cold. Please store in "normal" temps of 50-80 degrees.
Repairs:
I may be able to fix small flaws, like ear, nose or hoof rubs, but in general, I am not skilled at complicated or major repair work. If a model I own myself rubs or falls, I've often had to either turn it into a "pinto" to cover the flaw, or repaint it altogether if I was unable to hide the damaged area. The worst items for me to try and restore are broken legs, cracked tails, and large rubs or scratches on the barrel (side) of the horse.
Because of my poor track record of success on serious repairs, I highly recommend Sheryl Leisure for professional restoration of any of your "oops!" moments: http://www.modelhorsejamboree.com/repair.htm Sheryl does great work at very affordable prices and teaches classes at Breyerfest showing people how to fix their model horses. She is very well known for her skills in this area.
Repair and restoration is a unique and extremely valuable art form all its own! Just ask any major art museum. :)